Extraordinary! We should start our review with a superlative, because this restaurant (actually two restaurants in one) is in so many ways remarkable. You may think, from just peering in at the street level windows that is is only a rather nice, modern oriental diner. This is partly true, since the lower level is an efficient, low cost cafeteria of vegetarian delights. But Zen Palate's spectacular upper levels are mostly hidden from view until you pass from the mudane to the nearly opulent second venue. A wonderful and harmonious architectural combination of dark-stained wooden beams and polished wood floors with brick walls and multi-level views under a vaulted ancient brick ceiling testifies to the great expense and vision expended in the renovations, little of which is visible from the street.

THE LOWER LEVEL: Our first experience with Oriental vegetarian fare in New York was a delightful and satisfying surprise. The Cafe at Zen Palate offers either counter or table service and has one low ornamental wooden table with pillows instead of chairs, on a pollished wood platform that requires you to remove your shoes and sit Japanese style. (There are more of these on the upper levels, but be sure you can be comfortable sitting on your heels or crosslegged before choosing this arrangement for dinner).

We began with a plate of two small but very good, fresh Basil Moo-Shu Rolls wrapped in a soft, semi-transparent Rice Wrapper and filled with jicamu (sweet raddish-like root), roasted peanut, carrot, black mushroom, Soy Gluten and Sweet Basil. With a Shoyu based Dipping Sauce. Next the Dumplings arrived, neatly lined up on a plate on a lettuce leaf. The Steamed or Fried variety are filled with the same mix of finely Shredded Cabbage, Black Mushroom, Carrot and Soy Protein with a distinct accent of Cilantro. The Fried Dumplings were not in the least oily. A Soy, Vinegar and Ginger Sauce for pouring or dipping accompanied. These dumplings make a light and tasty prelude for your meal.

Stir-Fried Spinach Linguine with a scattering of String-Bean, Mushroom, Bean Sprouts and Sauteed Onion had been Wok Sauteed at high temperature and had a smokey, slightly burnt taste, something like Yaki Udon, according to one of our Japanese dinners.

We now moved on to our 'not-meat' dishes. The first was a beautiful presentation called Sesame Medallions in an sweet soy Asian Barbecue sauce. Looking like medallions of veal, it was made of thin sliced Wheat Gluten and was garnished with steamed broccoli flowers. This dish, served with Brown Rice, has the texture of tender meat, and if you are not a vegetarian, you can easily convince your self that it is.

Equally delicious and equally surprising was our next entree, Mini Vegi-Loaf. If you close your eyes you may think you're eating grandma's meatloaf. However, this dish, served over Spaghetti in a Tomato Sauce containing Fresh Mushrooms, Onion and Turnip is actually made of Fried Tofu Croquettes containing Chestnut and Cilantro. The texture is slightly crispy and granular, and really does feel like meatloaf. A final offering, Shephard's Pie Croquettes, were formed of minced Vegetables surrounded by mashed potato in a delicate patty lightly coated in breadcrumbs and fried to a golden color. The special sauce for this dish was a mix of Tomato, Hoisin and Worcestershire sauces

Each of the above entrees is ordinarily served in a Prix-Fixe format with two items from the list of Taro Spring Roll, Basil Moo Shu Roll, Pickled Cabbage, Brown Rice or Cous-Cous. The menu specifies which. Substitutions are/not allowed. You can choose from a variety of mineral waters, hot teas, juices, soy or rice milk and fruit teas.

We still have a long list of dishes to try here including some great sounding desserts, so this review may expand. Keep watching!

Price: 10   *    Reservations: Dinner  *  C.Cards: ($15 Min) MC,Visa,Amex
[INVITATION]